FENCING RESOURCES
Setting out a new farm fence? The question we get asked most is: how far apart should I space my posts?
There’s no single number, because spacing depends on what you’re fencing in, the country you’re fencing over, how many wires you’re running and how hard your stock works a fence. But there are proven rules, and this guide lays them all out: what to consider, plus a spacing chart you can work from on the most common jobs.
The short answer: On most Australian farm fences, 4 metres between star pickets is the sweet spot. Stretch to 5 metres for crop fencing on firm flat ground, tighten to 3 metres for cattle on hilly country. On long straight runs, drop in an inline strainer roughly every 100 metres. And remember the strength of your fence lives in the strainer posts, not the pickets: put one at every corner and gateway, and wherever the topography changes.
THE BASICS
Where Do I Start? The Two Posts That Make A Fence
First, understand that a farm fence uses two different types of posts, and they do different jobs.
Strainer posts keep your wire fence tight and upright. A strainer is an anchor point for the wires. Wherever anything changes along the fence line, the wires need to be anchored so they hold the same distance and the same strain.
Star pickets guide the line of the wires and provide additional support between strainers.
For both, the distance between posts comes down to four things: how heavy the fence is, the stock being fenced in or out, the topography of the land, and any changes in direction. But because strainers and pickets play different roles, you space them by different rules. Here’s the chart, then the reasoning.
THE CHART
Fence Post Spacing Chart
Star picket and strainer post spacing for common fencing jobs. Roadside rules vary by state, so always confirm with the road authority before you build.
| Fencing job | Star picket spacing | Strainer posts |
|---|---|---|
| Paddock fencing | ||
| Crop fencing, flat ground, no stock | 5m on firm ground; 4m in soft, moisture-holding soil or under heavy pig/kangaroo pressure | Corners, gateways, topography changes; inline every ~100m on long runs |
| Sheep, flat ground | 4m | As above |
| Sheep, hilly ground | 4m | Inline strainer at the bottom of every gully and top of every hill |
| Cattle, flat ground | 4m | Extra inline strainers on long stretches if cattle push fences |
| Cattle, hilly ground | 3m | As above, plus gullies and hilltops |
| Roadside fencing, by state | ||
| NSW | 3m maximum, typically 5 strands (R201 / TS 03300.2) | Check requirements with your local authority |
| QLD | 4m maximum, typically 4 strands (TMR MRTS14) | Check requirements with your local authority |
| VIC | Picket spacing per VicRoads standard fence drawings; posts set at least 600mm into the ground (VicRoads Spec 707) | Intermediate strainers at least every 200m on straights, plus ends, angles and grade changes |
| SA | Post intervals per the road authority’s design documentation (DIT RD-BF-C4) | Box strainers every 200m, at the end of each run and at every change of direction |
| TAS | 6m centres unless the drawings say otherwise (State Roads R72) | Intermediate strainers at least every 200m on straights |
| WA | Per Main Roads project drawings, minimum 3 wires tied per post (Spec 903) | Council specs commonly cap strainer intervals at 120m, or 90m for cattle |
| NT | No statewide numeric spec; set by the road authority per project | Check before you build |
Those numbers cover most jobs. The rest of this guide explains the why, so you can adjust with confidence when your paddock doesn’t match the chart.
THE RANGE
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PICKETS
What Impacts Star Picket Spacing?
The Number Of Wires On Your Fence
A big wire count, say 9 to 12, needs as much support as it can get. Your pickets will need to be closer together to carry that extra weight.
Livestock Size and Pressure
Large stock like cattle lean on fences, so pickets need to be closer together to take the pressure. Barbed wire helps as a deterrent, but you still want the added strength. Smaller stock like sheep and goats let you space pickets further apart.
Terrain
Flat country lets you run more space between support pickets. Hilly country needs more pickets so the fence follows the contours of the land, and the significant dips and rises need more than a picket. More on that below.
STRAINERS
What Impacts Strainer Post Spacing?
Does Type Of Livestock Matter?
Livestock type changes your picket spacing, but it doesn’t really affect your strainers. Use strong steel strainer posts of 80NB (89mm O.D.) or larger and the post will carry the fence. It won’t matter if you have cows or chickens.
The Topography Of Your Land
Any significant topography change calls for a strainer.
If your fence dips into a gully, put an inline strainer at the bottom of it. A star picket down there would be pulled straight out by the strain of the wire. A strainer holds tight.
Same logic at the top of a hill, in reverse. Use an inline strainer on the crest so the strained wire doesn’t drive the post into the ground.
On a dead flat plain running straight, with no hills or dips, you can easily get hundreds of metres between strainer posts.


A Change In Direction
Any change in direction on a heavier fence needs a strainer post. The pressure of the strained wire will push a picket sideways or bend it. A strainer stands up to it. For significant direction changes on highly strung fences, add a stay to keep the strainer upright.
Number Of Wires
Running 3 to 4 wires, or an electric fence? You may get away with star pickets for minor changes in topography or direction. For heavy-duty fences, keep the fence secure and tight with a strainer post.
Gateways
A strainer post end assembly on each side of the gateway. No exceptions.
Strainer Thickness
The thicker the wall, the stronger the strainer post, and the further apart you can run them while keeping the fence tight and upright. We recommend steel strainer posts of 80NB (89mm O.D.) or 100NB (114mm O.D.). Go under 80NB and you’ll need to place them closer together, which means more components and more expense.
SOIL
Do Ground Conditions Affect The Spacing Between Posts?
Ground conditions matter, but not the way most people think. The instinct is to add more posts. What actually counts is the depth of the posts.
In black soil or clay country, use longer posts that reach down to solid ground, or go for Drive-Tight® end assemblies that give you more anchorage. In sandy soil, set your posts deeper rather than adding more strainers. Rocky ground is harder to drive into, but the rock repays you: it gives the posts extra support and makes the whole fence stronger.
One trap worth calling out: crop fencing country. It’s usually flat, low-stress fencing, so most people figure 5 metre picket spacing is fine. On firm ground, it is. But cropping soil is often deep and soft and holds moisture, and in that ground widely spaced pickets can’t hold a straight line. Give it a few seasons and the whole fence leans over. If your ground is soft and wet, bring your pickets back to 4 metres.
SPECIAL CASES
Barbed Wire And Exclusion Fencing
Does barbed wire change your post spacing?
Not really. A barbed wire fence follows the same spacing rules as a plain wire fence: the spacing is set by your stock and terrain and how many wires you run, not by the barbs. So a 5 strand barbed wire cattle fence on flat ground still runs 4 metre picket spacing (3 metres on hilly country), with the same strainer rules as the chart above. The barbs discourage stock from leaning on the fence, which helps the fence, but don’t use them as an excuse to stretch your spacing.
Exclusion fencing
Fencing pests out is a different job to fencing stock in. Pigs and kangaroos hit a fence harder than sheep ever will, and they probe it constantly. Keep your picket spacing at 4 metres or less under real pest pressure, and don’t skimp on the end assemblies, because an exclusion fence only works while it’s tight.
THE METHOD
How To Build A Wire Fence: Our Fencing Tips
1.
Strainer posts first.
Plan the fence by marking out where the strainers go: the ends of the fence, the corners, the gateways and every change in direction or topography. Can you kill two birds with one stone by putting a gate where the fence changes direction? On long runs with no corners or gates, drop in an inline strainer every 100 metres or so, and a bit closer in high-pressure spots like a laneway into the yards, or wherever rowdy cattle work the fence. So a 300 metre stretch on flat terrain at 4 metre picket spacing needs an inline strainer every 100 metres, with pickets every 4 metres in between.
2.
Space your pickets out evenly.
Even spacing between strainers gives the fence even strength and support along its whole length. And it looks better too.
3.
Always double check.
It’s easy to knock in another strainer when there’s no wire and no strain. Once the fence is wired up and strained, changes are a nightmare. Check your placements before you strain, do it once and do it right.
4.
Consider what’s in your neighbour’s paddock.
On boundary fences, what’s on the other side matters as much as what’s on yours. If the neighbour runs Brahmans and you’ve spaced for a light three wire fence, you’re building yourself years of headaches.
QUICK ANSWERS
Fence Post Spacing FAQs
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For most Australian farm fences, 4 metres between star pickets. Go to 5 metres for crop fencing on firm flat ground with no stock (soft, moisture-holding soil needs 4 metres), and down to 3 metres for cattle on hilly ground. Strainer posts go at every corner, gateway and topography change, plus roughly every 100 metres on long straight runs.
Between strainer posts: on dead flat, dead straight country you can run hundreds of metres, though on long runs an inline strainer every 100 metres keeps the fence serviceable. Between pickets: past about 5 metres the wires lose support and the fence loses shape, so treat that as the ceiling.
Deep enough that the picket holds line and tension without working loose: as a rule, about a third of the picket below ground, so roughly 600mm on a standard 1.8m picket, driven until the anchor fin is well buried. Remember pickets only guide the wires. The holding power of the fence comes from the strainer assemblies.
It changes your depth more than your spacing. Soft soils need longer, deeper posts or Drive-Tight® end assemblies; rocky ground supports posts naturally. In black soil or clay country, use longer posts or Drive-Tight® end assemblies for more anchorage; in sandy soil, set posts deeper rather than adding more strainers.
THE GEAR
Get Your Fence Posts Sorted
By now you’ve got a good handle on spacing your fence posts. Still got a question about a tricky paddock? Contact us, or talk to one of our recommended rural fencing contractors.
When you’re ready to build, our end assemblies and fencing hardware are made to save you time on the job and outlast the fence around them. Every product is backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee, and with 900+ stockists around Australia, there’s a local store near you.
Got your spacing sorted? The next job is putting your strainers in properly. Read our Strainer Post Installation Guide.